- Created: Wednesday, 25 November 2020 15:14
Bell EMEA Presents Modern Fragrance Creations for Natural Cosmetics.
The international natural and organic cosmetics industry is evolving like hardly any other consumer goods industry – and with it the scent preferences of consumers. Sophisticated fragrance profiles with fresh, spicy or creamy notes are in vogue. Inspired by current trends, Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA presents a modern collection of natural perfume oil compositions. These new scent creations are suitable for certified natural and organic cosmetics, from shower gel to shampoo and skin cream. Bell’s perfumers have developed the fragrances according to the standards of NATRUE, COSMOS NATURAL and COSMOS ORGANIC.
Booming Natural Cosmetics
The demand is greater than ever for cosmetic products made from natural ingredients. The industry has been recording strong growth rates for years, especially in the DACH Region (Germany, Austria, Switzerland), the USA and France. The German market recorded an increase in sales of 9.5% in 2019 (source: Statista). This gives certified natural and organic cosmetics a market share of almost 10% of the German cosmetics market. If industry experts are right, the market potential remains far from exhausted.
Alongside this rapid development, trends and topics that appeal to consumers are also evolving. A few years ago, it was product concepts and scents with purely fruity, floral or herbal characteristics that were widespread and popular. Today, consumers of natural cosmetics are much more discerning and expect more diverse fragrance profiles. This is a preference which at times presents a major challenge for perfumers due to the much smaller range of raw materials available in the natural cosmetics sector compared to synthetic fragrances.
Fresh, Spicy, Creamy – Fragrance Profiles with Character
Refreshing like Clear Water
One of the most popular as well as olfactorily challenging types of fragrances are those with watery notes. They are particularly in demand for moisturising and refreshing body and face care products, yet must be created with a very limited range of raw materials. The skilful use of fresh accords, such as minty notes, creates an aquatic-fresh scent – purely with the resources of nature. Bell perfumer Benjamin Bienek explains his approach to fragrance development as follows:
"For me, water is refreshing and invigorating, yet also elegant and graceful. In my composition "Minty Splash NatScent" I used the refreshing properties of mint, as well as notes of lively watermelon to olfactorily represent the cool, invigorating side of water. I underline water's graceful elegance with a balsamic base of vanilla, patchouli & cistus".
Benjamin Bienek, Perfumer, Bell EMEA
Relaxing like a Walk in the Woods
Fresh and green fragrances do also meet the current demands. Notes inspired by eucalyptus, cactus or aloe vera, which are widely used in cosmetics, are gender-neutral and suitable for every season. Ingredients from trees such as birch or cedar can be used as a source of inspiration for fragrance development, as well as to create a story around a personal care product. The Japanese wellness trend "Forest Bathing" (Jap. "Shinrin Yoku" = take a bath in the atmosphere of the forest) is currently making its way to Europe and promises mental relaxation and stress reduction. With reference to this calming ritual, Bell calls one of the woodland creations "Forest Therapy NatScent". When developing this fragrance, the perfumer, Justyna Dehne-Degenkolb, was inspired by the soothing atmosphere of the forest. "I imagined myself standing in the middle of a forest clearing. Surrounded by the subtle smell of white birch bark, I could forget the hectic everyday life for a moment. The scent is fresh and green, but at the same time warm and relaxing," reports Ms. Dehne-Degenkolb, who has a special fondness for composing natural fragrances.
Creamy like Skin Protecting Milk
Moreover, health-enhancing micro-organisms have found their way into the world of cosmetics, having first gained recognition in the nutrition industry: Probiotics are considered a way to guarantee good skin health as they balance the natural skin flora. The ingredient, primarily derived from lactic acid bacteria, is particularly suited to skin-protecting and skin-soothing creams and lotions. In keeping with this trend, Bell's new fragrance collection contains milky creations – on the one hand a pampering creamy gourmand note, on the other a sophisticated accord that highlights natural aspects. The latter, called "Nature's Milk NatScent", evokes associations with the milky sap that escapes when plant stems are cut. Thereby, the perfumer reinterprets the milk theme in a surprising way.
Invigorating like Exotic Spices
Stimulating and spicy compositions complement the portfolio of natural fragrances. Far Eastern spices such as sweet and fresh cardamom are the inspiration for invigorating fragrance profiles, particularly suited to vitalising shower gels and body lotions. Some of these exotic treasures have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can be beneficial for face care products. One example of this is turmeric root, which Ayurvedic medicine has valued for its healing powers for thousands of years. In "Kurkumissimo NatScent", perfumer Elisa Tzedakis translated the golden spice's naturally rather subtle scent into an aromatic composition.
“My idea was to develop a very spicy fragrance that reflects the turmeric root's healing powers. To open this composition, I chose other precious spices such as cardamom, ginger and nutmeg to intensify the exotic aroma and lend the composition a sparkling touch. In the heart, along with the turmeric, notes of jasmine and orange blossom give the spicy facets a round and sensual aspect. The drydown of vanilla and cedarwood provides a remaining sensual and soothing feeling, to give comfort, along with the spicy energy, which is ideal in those currents times. With this accord, I would like to enhance people’s feelings of peace and energy in their everyday lives".
Elisa Tzedakis, Perfumer, Bell EMEA