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Innovation Fragrances

The Bell Family – Junior Perfumer Elisa

#WomenInScience: Elisa Tzedakis.

On the occasion of the “International Day of Women and Girls in Science and Technology” we would like to introduce one of our female Junior Perfumers.

Originally from France and holding a Bachelor's degree in Chemistry and a Master's degree in Science and Perfumery, Elisa Tzedakis finally completed her perfumery apprenticeship at Bell in Leipzig. Read how she pursued her goal of a career in fragrances with passion and discipline for many years.

 

At a Glance

Profession: Junior Perfumer
Age: 33 years
Origin: Toulouse, France
Education: Bachelor of Chemistry / Master of Science and Perfumery

How did you become a perfumer?

Elisa Tzedakis: I was always very curious about smells - first of all, those that surrounded me in nature, especially during travelling, or those coming out from the kitchen, especially from my mother’s cooking. One day, my aunt took me on a trip to the "Château de Chamerolles" in Chilleurs-aux-Bois in France, which hosts a museum of scent and perfume. There I was absolutely fascinated by the original wooden fragrance organ and learned that perfumer is an actual profession. I felt it was absolutely magical to learn a profession whose purpose it is to create fragrances that arouse emotions. I must have been about 10 years old by that time.

Is the idea of being a perfumer more romantic in retrospect than it is in reality?

ET: My vision of working as a perfumer is, of course, no longer as romantic as it was at the age of 10. Nevertheless, today I can say that I love being a perfumer more than I could have ever imagined. I would like to quote Gaston Berger (French philosopher and futurist) at this point:


"Leaving childhood means turning dreams into reality, it means finding a way between what we are and what we would like to be.”

Gaston Berger
French philosopher and futurist

This quote is the reason why I preserve some of the beauty of my dream every day by remembering how blessed I am to be able to follow my passion. And actually, even if I lost a bit the romantic aspect, everytime I start a new creation, I feel the magic of turning an idea into a scent.

How did your professional career develop up to now? 

ET: After gaining a Bachelor's degree in Chemistry, I continued with Science and Perfumery to earn my Master's degree and completed its practical part at an international fragrance and flavour company in France. There I was able to gain my first practical experience in the field of perfumery. Afterwards, I worked on natural raw materials and as perfumer assistant and evaluator, before spending another five years as fine fragrance development manager.

In 2017, I moved to Germany, because I got the opportunity to do the internal perfumer training at Bell. The program lasts 3 years and includes lots of smelling tests to get to know the numerous raw materials, a lot of practice on accords formulations and classical perfume schemes and, of course, all relative knowledge such as botanical. Today, I still keep on smelling the raw materials I've already accomplished to learn every day to keep the memory alive and to deepen what I've learned. Furthermore, you never stop learning in this job. Raw materials, restrictions and technical progress are changeable and this has to be refreshed regularly.

How important is olfactory sensitivity?

ET: I would say that the most important thing in my profession is the brain. The nose is of course an indispensable tool, but during the creation process a perfumer uses his memory, knowledge and imagination to create a unique composition. A large portion of passion as well as discipline, patience and creativity are essential too.

What do you enjoy most within your work?

ET: I feel the greatest joy when I can trigger an emotion with my creations. I am always excited when I hold the finished perfume oil in my hands at the end of a long development process. Because even though the process is often very similar, the result is always different and often even surprises me.

What advice would you give to young people who want to learn this profession?

ET: Start smelling everything that catches your nose, train your memory and awaken the creativity within you.

 

 


February 11, we celebrate “International Day of Women and Girls in Science”. Let’s recognise the crucial role that women and girls play in science and technology. We are happy to have strong ambitious women like Elisa in our company.

Take your chance and head for a career in the fragrances industry:

Start your career right now!

Naturally sophisticated

Bell EMEA Presents Modern Fragrance Creations for Natural Cosmetics.

The international natural and organic cosmetics industry is evolving like hardly any other consumer goods industry – and with it the scent preferences of consumers. Sophisticated fragrance profiles with fresh, spicy or creamy notes are in vogue. Inspired by current trends, Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA presents a modern collection of natural perfume oil compositions. These new scent creations are suitable for certified natural and organic cosmetics, from shower gel to shampoo and skin cream. Bell’s perfumers have developed the fragrances according to the standards of NATRUE, COSMOS NATURAL and COSMOS ORGANIC.

 

Booming Natural Cosmetics

The demand is greater than ever for cosmetic products made from natural ingredients. The industry has been recording strong growth rates for years, especially in the DACH Region (Germany, Austria, Switzerland), the USA and France. The German market recorded an increase in sales of 9.5% in 2019 (source: Statista). This gives certified natural and organic cosmetics a market share of almost 10% of the German cosmetics market. If industry experts are right, the market potential remains far from exhausted.

Alongside this rapid development, trends and topics that appeal to consumers are also evolving. A few years ago, it was product concepts and scents with purely fruity, floral or herbal characteristics that were widespread and popular. Today, consumers of natural cosmetics are much more discerning and expect more diverse fragrance profiles. This is a preference which at times presents a major challenge for perfumers due to the much smaller range of raw materials available in the natural cosmetics sector compared to synthetic fragrances.

Fresh, Spicy, Creamy – Fragrance Profiles with Character

 

Refreshing like Clear Water

One of the most popular as well as olfactorily challenging types of fragrances are those with watery notes. They are particularly in demand for moisturising and refreshing body and face care products, yet must be created with a very limited range of raw materials. The skilful use of fresh accords, such as minty notes, creates an aquatic-fresh scent – purely with the resources of nature. Bell perfumer Benjamin Bienek explains his approach to fragrance development as follows:

 

"For me, water is refreshing and invigorating, yet also elegant and graceful. In my composition "Minty Splash NatScent" I used the refreshing properties of mint, as well as notes of lively watermelon to olfactorily represent the cool, invigorating side of water. I underline water's graceful elegance with a balsamic base of vanilla, patchouli & cistus".

Benjamin Bienek, Perfumer, Bell EMEA

 

Relaxing like a Walk in the Woods

Fresh and green fragrances do also meet the current demands. Notes inspired by eucalyptus, cactus or aloe vera, which are widely used in cosmetics, are gender-neutral and suitable for every season. Ingredients from trees such as birch or cedar can be used as a source of inspiration for fragrance development, as well as to create a story around a personal care product. The Japanese wellness trend "Forest Bathing" (Jap. "Shinrin Yoku" = take a bath in the atmosphere of the forest) is currently making its way to Europe and promises mental relaxation and stress reduction. With reference to this calming ritual, Bell calls one of the woodland creations "Forest Therapy NatScent". When developing this fragrance, the perfumer, Justyna Dehne-Degenkolb, was inspired by the soothing atmosphere of the forest. "I imagined myself standing in the middle of a forest clearing. Surrounded by the subtle smell of white birch bark, I could forget the hectic everyday life for a moment. The scent is fresh and green, but at the same time warm and relaxing," reports Ms. Dehne-Degenkolb, who has a special fondness for composing natural fragrances.

 

Creamy like Skin Protecting Milk

Moreover, health-enhancing micro-organisms have found their way into the world of cosmetics, having first gained recognition in the nutrition industry: Probiotics are considered a way to guarantee good skin health as they balance the natural skin flora. The ingredient, primarily derived from lactic acid bacteria, is particularly suited to skin-protecting and skin-soothing creams and lotions. In keeping with this trend, Bell's new fragrance collection contains milky creations – on the one hand a pampering creamy gourmand note, on the other a sophisticated accord that highlights natural aspects. The latter, called "Nature's Milk NatScent", evokes associations with the milky sap that escapes when plant stems are cut. Thereby, the perfumer reinterprets the milk theme in a surprising way.

 

Invigorating like Exotic Spices

Stimulating and spicy compositions complement the portfolio of natural fragrances. Far Eastern spices such as sweet and fresh cardamom are the inspiration for invigorating fragrance profiles, particularly suited to vitalising shower gels and body lotions. Some of these exotic treasures have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can be beneficial for face care products. One example of this is turmeric root, which Ayurvedic medicine has valued for its healing powers for thousands of years. In "Kurkumissimo NatScent", perfumer Elisa Tzedakis translated the golden spice's naturally rather subtle scent into an aromatic composition.


“My idea was to develop a very spicy fragrance that reflects the turmeric root's healing powers. To open this composition, I chose other precious spices such as cardamom, ginger and nutmeg to intensify the exotic aroma and lend the composition a sparkling touch. In the heart, along with the turmeric, notes of jasmine and orange blossom give the spicy facets a round and sensual aspect. The drydown of vanilla and cedarwood provides a remaining sensual and soothing feeling, to give comfort, along with the spicy energy, which is ideal in those currents times. With this accord, I would like to enhance people’s feelings of peace and energy in their everyday lives".

Elisa Tzedakis, Perfumer, Bell EMEA

 

All perfume oil compositions are vegan and suitable for use in certified natural cosmetic products according to standards set by NATRUE, COSMOS NATURAL and COSMOS ORGANIC. From shower gel and shampoo to body lotion and facial cream, the natural perfume oils can be used for various applications. The fragrance collection is complemented by a selection of organic plant extracts, which can be claimed on cosmetic products to underline the nature-based formulation.

Request our Fragrance concept!

Breathe. Escape. Enjoy. – Fragrances to feel alive

Bell EMEA presents Air Care Trends 2021/22.

The latest collection for candles and reed diffusers reflects the spirit of our time: The compositions underline the desire for inner harmony as well as the longing to escape and simply relax. In keeping with this ambivalence between quiet reflection and exuberant longing for the strange and surprising, Bell’s trends for the 2021/22 air care season come with the slogan "Breathe. Escape. Enjoy."

 

In addition to current trend fragrances, manufacturers in the candle business can benefit from Bell's many years of technical expertise. The company supplies the fragrances in both classic liquid perfume oil as well as in the specially developed, solid candle base Scenti Master Batch. Read more about this below.

 

Breathe.

The more turbulent and uncertain the times are, the more important the private sphere becomes. People focus on the essentials: family, home, community. Taking a deep breath, looking back, and exploring new paths characterises contemporary life styles. A peaceful environment is a strong incentive and can help generate new strength. Natural materials like wood, untreated cotton and soft fabrics express this feeling as much as soft, neutral colours. Bell's perfumers have created an olfactory interpretation of this feeling of well-being with extremely elegant fragrances. Lily of the valley and fig unfold in the fragrances "Midnight Lounge" for candles and "Fallen" for reed diffusers with an unusual lightness and freshness. No less noble are the candle fragrances "Deep Inside" and "Chillout Cloud" for reed diffusers: Supported by, among other things, jasmine and sandalwood, they communicate the imperfect beauty that the theme contains.

 

Escape.

There is also a deep longing for something far away. Much like homesickness, wanderlust drives people to search for inner fulfilment. Escaping the daily grind, looking to mysterious, distant lands, and also the origins of one's own homeland satisfies the strong desire for freedom and responds to the deep inner thirst for fulfilment. The warm fragrances that reflect this feeling are characterised by earthy and spicy notes. The candle scents "Lost in the Woods" and "Be the Change" dive into the richness of the world and with cinnamon and woody notes on the one hand and an aldehydic lavender composition with a minty top note on the other hand, both of these fragrances represent an intermingling of cultures and rituals. Bells perfumers have reimagined the theme for reed diffusers with creations called "New Beginning" and "Wanderlust".

 

Enjoy.

Ultimately everything is a question of personal preference. Realising the limited nature and uniqueness of your own life as well as enjoying it to the fullest. Psychologists all agree: The most satisfied are all those who accept life and all its ups and downs and still manage to maintain their positive attitude. Moreover, fireworks of vibrant and bright colours, which are the essence of life, shine all the brighter in the dark. Featuring the fragrance of ripened peaches, red berries or even orange, prickly pear, and lychee, the scents "Peach Life" and "My little Cactus" show how lively and intense this hunger for life can smell in a candle. The reed fragrances "Tropisoul" and "Summer Fun", with mango, jasmine, pineapple and grapefruit, capture the cheerful lightness of summer.

 

Ask for your Trend Report!

 

Scenti Master Batch – Technology for scented candles in perfection

Scented candles are one of Bell's core strengths. With Scenti Master Batch, the company offers a fragrance system that has been specially developed for the specific requirements associated with this application.

The intensity of scented candles in particular can be significantly improved with Scenti Master Batch. For example, the carrier material supports a dosage over 5 per cent. At the same time, the fragrance oil is bonded in a way that prevents the oil from separating, thus significantly increasing the longevity of the product. This means consumers can enjoy the benefits of a candle that releases its scent only after it has been lit. Last but not least, scented candles manufactured with Scenti Master Batch stand out due to their extremely efficient and even burning.

Scenti Master Batch is available either as a block or as pastilles. The latter is particularly easy to process as a bulk material and due to its lower melting point and, as a non-flammable material, can be stored very easily.

Find out more!

Sustainable please

Bell EMEA presents botanical extracts for environmentally friendly products.

Botanical extracts have long been an integral part of the portfolio of Bell Flavors and Fragrances EMEA. Now the company has developed a series of botanicals that focus on sustainability.

The result is this range of extracts from cocoa shells, coffee cherry husk, chamomile and dyer's woad.

Throughout the entire process, the company's experts have focused on the most environmentally friendly, resource-efficient production possible without compromising on quality. The newly developed extracts are particularly suitable ingredients for products aimed at the growing number of consumers who want to shop and live more sustainably.

 

Discover our sustainable botanical extracts!

Botanical A PW Gly w.s. o.s. Org
Chamomile Dust      
Chamomile Petal      
Cherry Stem      
Cocoa Peel      
Coffee Cherry Husk    
Grapefruit Peel        
Lemon Peel        
Orange Peel (bitter)          
Orange Peel (sweet)        

 

Download Press Release (PDF)

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